Friday, October 6, 2023

One Stick to Rule Them All??

The day has come when hunters no longer are relegated to stump sitting or leaning up against some gnarly oak waiting out the next big buck to take a shot.

Now, more than ever, it's death from above by arrow, bolt or bullet. 

When I started over a decade ago in my 30s, I had a Walmart-special hang-on stand and dozen screw-in steps to make a nest somewhere high enough to see over thickets and scrub to get a chance at something four-legged and brown. 

Since then, I've tried it all - almost. Ladder stand - check. Climber (two kinds) - check. Ground blind - check. And lately, saddle setup (with sticks, ladder and single-stick) - check.

Several hundred dollars can outfit you with a competitively high-end gear kit for saddle hunting. Even a good, lightweight climber will run about the same. But what's the deal? Is there really a "best method" for hunting from a tree? 

Certainly there are dozens advocating for any number of methods and gear and styles from traditional haul-hang-sit setups to "mobile" options that promise quiet maneuverability with a little practice and determination.

I've spent the last three to four years investigating these options.  Each have their merits and drawbacks. I've seen a lot of YouTube content and blogs and forum discussions focused on this vs that methods and gear. I haven't found much running the gamut. So here's my take and honest opinion on each.

To start, let's cover the basics...

Hang-Ons

The overall design is virtually the same regardless of the manufacturer. The idea is simple, easy and economical, relatively speaking. A basic, entry level hanger can be purchased for well under a hundred dollars and can range into the several hundreds depending on style, options and accessories. 

Hang-ons have a place in the market as the tried and true "minimalist" setup for bow hunters and rifle hunters alike. They can be placed nearly anywhere you can climb into depending on how you get there. 

To that end, there's the old screw-in steps (cheap but damaging to the tree) to strap-on ladders or steps. This is an additional cost that also runs the range from a few dollars to several hundred, again style and design depending. 

Pros - Works just about anywhere. Gives a good perch and small footprint; makes it easy to blend in. 

Cons - Cumbersome to pack in and requires some climbing method to get into position. This can be difficult with some limbs on trees and the type of steps used. 


Ladder Stands/Tri-pods

Lumping together ladder stands and platforms ("tri-pods") should go with out saying. Both use a rigid, modular design to get you up in the air. The difference being platforms are stand-alone setups where as ladder stands require a tree or pole as another leg to keep the stand up and secure. 

Platforms aren't the focus here, but they do have merit, especially in flat, open areas where trees are small, spindly or even non-existent. They can open up visibility and provide an elevated view and can be permanent or semi-permanent depending on the design. Great for those private property locations with a prime spot that can be visited year after year. 

But the focus here is more on ladders. These stands, also known as "leaners" are some of the most popular types since they are an "all-in-one" type of system. They can be secure, sit multiple people and require only a little assembly compared to a platform. Again, cost is relative. The more options, the more money you will spend, but they can be tricked out in dozens of ways for just about any hunter's preference or need.

As of this writing, a single person basic stand can be bought for just under a hundred with the larger, more tricked-out versions for nearly $800 (not including platforms).

Pros - Stable, secure and customizable. These can have anything from an umbrella, a wrap around blind, gun rests, drink holders, you name it. They can sit two or three depending on the model and can easily be locked to a tree with a cable or chain if you're on public land. 

Cons - What you pack in, you pack out. Forget strapping to a backpack and hiking these in. Carts or even ATVs are a necessity to get these into where you want to set up. And you may need a buddy to get them up into place. Compared to hang-ons or climbers, these require the most assembly and are the hardest to put into place. And some of the most expensive options on the market. 


Climbers

Until a few years back, mobile hunting meant using a climber stand. The idea is simple enough, but climbing isn't as easy as it may seem. Using two parts, the upper and lower, a hunter can leverage himself foot by foot using the stand to climb the tree. Unlike hang-ons or ladders, these are typically lightweight enough to backpack into hard to reach places that might prohibit other options. 

There's a few variations in the design, but generally, the upper and lower portions are secured using cable or chain (coated to prevent damage and help quiet the climb) that wraps around the tree. Each piece is "cammed" against the trunk of the tree to provide purchase to "inch" up the tree.

These can be some of the least safe methods of get into tree (more about this below) and they can be bulky. A trade-off for mobility. 

Pros - A good method for getting to those hard to reach places but at a bit of a cost. While not as expensive as a ladder stand can be, they provide a portable "all-in-one" solution which can be useful in public land settings or more inaccessible areas for regular stands. 

Cons - Unfortunately, there's quite a few. Don't misunderstand - I've used climbers on many hunts and gotten several deer with this system/method. But the draw backs are something to ponder. First, trees. There is a size and "type" of restriction to these. While somewhat adjustable, there's only so many size trees that may work. And smaller, spindly "post" like trees aren't a good option. Mature growth is better. Also limbs. Forget anything that has limbs between you and you're desired height. Climbers need a straight, telephone pole like trunk to work their magic. Which leads to the second point - weather. Climbers are great in dry environments. But with rain or snow/ice, they can be hazardous. There's only so much security they can offer when climbing and slipping in inclement weather is not just possible, but likely. Designs have gotten better, but not much. Next is bulk. Some only weigh a few pounds but it's not always the weight you have to consider. One of the most popular is by Summit. Total weight is 18#, as opposed to a hang-on that weighs over 20#. But the dimensions here are about 22" x 33". Packing in may not be easy if you're looking to get through scrub or thick undergrowth to find that honey hole you scouted pre-season. 

Lastly, and for me this is the biggest - safety. While every manufacturer selling climbers will include a lineman belt and harness, I've seen very few hunters properly use the safety equipment. Sure, this is the hunter's responsibility but also the reason why it's more difficult. Climbing with the stand is difficult in its own right. Using the lineman belt while climbing with the stand is a multistep process that is cumbersome and complicated. In my experience, it can take three to four times longer climbing with the belt than without. But, having it is for good reason. If there is a slick spot or bark breaks off in chunks or the tree tapers rapidly, the stand may slip and fall - taking you with it! While the two-piece system is tethered to each other, having the bottom drop out is a good way to reconsider your life choices. 


Saddles (Mobile Hunting)

Saddle hunting has taken the sport by storm, much like crossbows to archery. There are numerous mobile methods and by this I mean saddle-hunting. While climbers can be considered "mobile", saddle-hunting is focused on a true minimalist method for hunting from a tree. 

There are several methods of saddle-hunting from DIY to specially designed and commercially available kits. It is also the most customizable of all the above methods with options to change nearly every part of the gear from the saddle/harness to the rope to other accessories. Kitting out can be relatively cheap compared to other stand/climbing alternatives or can be just as expensive as you want to make it.

The setup is more about gear than a stand comprising of a saddle/harness, rope with varying methods of ascending and/or descending and an optional platform. Most premade kits include a saddle with lineman belt/rope, climbing rope and step or platform.

Before I get into the pros & cons for mobile hunting, here's a breakdown of the main types or categories and their specific concerns. This will be in two parts - Saddle/harness and climbing method.

  • Saddle/Harness: There's two primary ways of going about this. Either purchase a kit that includes an integrated harness and saddle purposely designed for this hunting style, or build your own (DIY).
    • Branded - These are designed and sold specifically for saddle hunting. At a minimum they include a saddle with a bridge for comfort, safety and maneuverability. At most, these kits may include steps, rope, ascenders and more. Prices range from about a hundred to several hundred depending on options and style
    • DIY: Do It Yourself setups can be just as costly as a branded kit, but highly customizable. At a minimum this is just a climbing harness with basic lineman rope and/or bridge and most times coupled with a "sit-drag" for a seat. They can also be a frugal option for hunters who aren't willing to dish out so much for a system that's still fairly new and in vogue.  Building your own can be inexpensive but may take time to vet out all the options before finding what works. That said - do your homework!

  • Climbing Method: This is where it gets interesting. I've compiled it to four primary types but there is cross-over and variability with all of these. And all require a climbing rope

    • Stick - Yep, climbing sticks. A set of three or more strap/tie-on sticks. Most common are Hawk and Tethrd brands. But there are many more from the old school ladder sticks to the newer compact, stackable types. 
    • One-Stick - Like above, this method uses a stick but only one. Usually in conjunction with an aider, a set of additional steps made of rope or webbing to provide more height per movement. One-sticking uses a leap-frogging technique that gets you up free and clear with minimal gear. In my opinion, this is the minimalist method for any hunter looking to climb anywhere, anytime and do so quickly, quietly, and without added bulk or gear.
    • Rope Only- There are two common rope methods - DRT and SRT. The difference is the number of ropes used to ascend a tree. Both typically utilize trees with large crook or "Y" to throw a rope ball over to set an anchor for climbing. This is method commonly used by arborists and requires quite a bit of kit and energy! Typical setups use at least two ascenders (hand and foot), a climbing harness (typically heavier than saddles) and rope. Lots of rope! SRT/DRT hunters usually pack in quite a bit of gear which can cost a lot for each individual component. And the method itself requires pulling yourself up by rope, like you may have done in high-school PE only with safety equipment. Note: of all the videos I have seen of people roping up a tree, I have yet to see one who isn't winded by the time they are at hunting height. No hunter wants to sprint into their spot because of odor control - you'll sweat buckets. Roping is not much different - very physical and that builds body heat which leads to sweat and so forth.
    • Spikes - Linemen and arborists often use climbing spikes (or gaffers) that strap to the legs to climb poles or trees for working at height. Spikes are expensive, well over a hundred for a basic pair, and require maintenance. You shouldn't walk in wearing them as they'll dull from digging into the ground which means loss of grip with climbing. I'm not confident they should be used with branded saddle kit and you still need to secure your rope like with the rope method. There's more gear needed to use the safely and it's questionable if DNR would allow for their use on public land given the spikes dig past the bark and into the tree. So there's several reasons here alone I would recommend passing on this method.

Pros - Lightweight, very lightweight. The average branded kit without sticks is well under 5 pounds. Some are even less than 2! Sticks now are mostly CNC'd aluminum and are featherlight themselves. Some of the climbing equipment (ascenders & descenders) can be a bit heavy depending on the type but there are plenty of options that are ultralight if weight is the concern. So packing into some hideaway is quite easy and saddlehunting can be done in almost any weather with nearly any type of tree regardless of trunk size or the presence of lower limbs. 

Cons - There is a learning curve and paying attention to order of operation is important to ensure safety. DIY kits may require more attention than branded, but in any case making sure you are properly secured at any given point is paramount. Unlike ladders, falling in a rope situation can turn nasty in a flash. 
Depending on the climbing method, more attention and/or skill may be needed, not just to climb but also to shoot your weapon of choice. It takes some practice to learn to shoot hanging from a tree by a rope! But it's more than doable. 




To summarize, how you hunt is up to you. Any time climbing a tree is involved, it's potentially dangerous and should be done with caution and attention to safety.  But there are plenty of options regardless of age or size to get up above the deer. And don't become starry eyed when the newest thing comes out. Saddle hunting has been around for decades but until recently has sat quietly in the shadows with only a cult following. As technology and the ability to share knowledge and ideas had become widespread, it's only reasonable to see a surge into the lime light with something like saddle hunting. 

Regardless of the route you want to take, do your homework. Not all shirts fit when you put them on, just like not all these methods work the way you think they will for you! 


Final Thoughts

As I mentioned at the beginning, I've used a variety of methods and set ups. I've borrowed, bought, and scraped together gear to make my own from building my own saddle-hunting platform to modifying inexpensive sticks to buying ladders to climbers. 

My current setup is a DIY saddle with a single-stick. I've included links to most everything but here's a run-down of the essentials:

- Rock Harness (NewDoar Climbing Harness)
- Sit-Drag (Sit-Drag)
- Climbing Rope (Werewolves Rope)
- Hawk Helium Stick with Plaform option (Hawk StickPlatform)
- Lineman Rope (Muddy Quick-Clip Lineman)
- Carabiners  (up to you. Pros recommend Petzl, Black Diamond, etc. Check out HowNot2 on Amazon Knockoffs)
- Paracord (as a pull rope)

There are a few "off-brands" that are good for some things. But quality = safety. So using good, quality gear will reduce the risk of injury or even death. Don't Take Chances! That said, I look for highly rated items with plenty of qualified reviews. The AOKWIT figure 8 is just that and meets rated standards so I'm not worried about using that over a Petzl or Black Diamond. Some use Grigris or MadRocks or similar. I've tried a few but they tend to clank, have to be loaded mechanically onto the rope and are quite expensive. Especially since saddlehunters are buying up stock like crazy. 

My setup is like this - Harness with sit-drag 'bined to the harness at the loops with the bridge between. I can walk in this way with the drag connected and the bridge ready to go. I carry the Figure 8 and extra 'biners in one pouch with my pull rope. In the other, I load up by lineman with prusik and 'biner for tethering to the tree once I'm in position. 
The stick is slightly modified with the addition of the platform in place of top steps and swapping out the bursa button for a cam-cleat sized for the rope I'm using. 
From here it's stick, climb, hang, move stick, repeat until I'm at the height I want. I believe in redundancy so my climbing rope always stays hooked to the tree and me to it along with the lineman rope. 
My pack carries any other essentials including the climbing rope but for the most part stays on the ground. Don't leave anything on the ground you need to get up OR down!
Once up, I clip my pull rope to the climbing rope at the carabiner and hoist up my weapon. I've used gear hooks, straps, etc. Find what works for you. Here's an important tip - leave your pull rope clipped to your climbing rope! Once you rapel down, you need a way to retrieve the rope. Unlike SRT/DRT where the rope itself can usually be pulled back over the crotch, one-sticking requires the climbing rope for rapeling back down and you don't want your rope stuck all the way up where you just come from!

One of the best "show-n-tells" I've found is Staggs in the Wild on YouTube. While they do promote particular brands and setups, they have some great tips and information that makes it easy to understand.
Their video "One-Sticking is So Easy..." is a great introduction to how-to without it being overly complicated or pushy. 

I can go further into the nitty-gritty but there is volumes of information on saddle-hunting available with the click of button. YouTube had been flooded with content for saddle-hunting from new products to DIY to how-tos and more. Major channels like The Hunting Public and Deer & Deer Hunting have done numerous videos on it while forums such as ArcheryTalk have dozens of threads discussing ins and outs, tips, tricks, and more. 

There's no excuse not to be educated when it comes to saddle-hunting. The only caveat to that may be too much information can be bad thing. And remember, just because something is polished, doesn't make it valuable. 


No comments:

Post a Comment